There are many ways to successfully feed, house, and care for ball pythons. These are the ways that have worked for me.
Housing
I house all of my adult ball pythons in rack systems using tubs that measure 33" x 17" x 5.25". Hatchlings are also kept in racks
using tubs (plastic "sweater boxes" available at most home shopping
stores) that measure 21.5" x 9.5" x 3.25. Many people
have had success keeping young ball python in 20 gallon "breeder" tanks
and adult in 40 gallon "breeder" tanks. Even though glass aquariums can be made to work, it is much easier to provide your
ball python with proper heat and humidity in a plastic enclosure designed for housing
reptiles. There are many commercially
available and when set up with the proper heating elements in
addition to a thermostat, they
are the absolute best way for the beginning hobbyist to keep a ball python.
Temperature
All of my enclosures are set up with a heat gradient that runs from 82-84 on one side up to 92-94 on the other. This gradient allows
my ball pythons to be able
to move from one end of the cage to the other and choose the temperature
they need. Unless you are breeding, there is no need for a night
time temperature drop. In order to keep your ball python eating
regularly and healthy, your best effort should be made to maintain
these temperatures 24 hours a day all year round.
Make sure you use the right equipment to manage your ball pythons
temperatures. A reliable digital thermometer will provide you with
an accurate temperature reading and a quality proportional
thermostat will allow you to manage temperatures automatically,
giving your ball python the best possible care.Temperatures that
are either too low or too high can sometimes cause ball pythons to
go off feed. Also, temperatures that are too low can weaken your
snakes immune system and lead to possible illness in your animal.
Make sure your temps are always "where they're supposed to be".
Humidity
Humidity should run between 50% and 60% year round. In your ball
pythons enclosure, misting or a
large water dish near the primary heat source can help boost
humidity. Using a reliable digital
thermometer, with an electronic humidity gauge, will effectively
determine correct humidity.
If you're having problems maintaining proper humidity, creating a
"humid hide" out of a small rubber maid container and some damp
sphagnum moss is an easy remedy.
Too low or too high humidity can sometimes cause a ball python to
go off feed.
Feeding
All of my ball pythons are fed once a week ... age or size doesn't matter ... Monday is feeding day at my "shop". I like to feed whatever my ball pythons will eat. Mice or rats, it doesn't
matter to me as long as they are eating regularly and not losing weight. Unlike many of the larger species of pythons, I have had success feeding my ball pythons smaller sized food items ... rodents that
are slightly smaller than the animals girth. I feel that feeding ball pythons too large of a prey item (one that creates a lump) will cause them to become "back up" and end up refusing food later
down the road. I personally prefer to have my snakes eat more consistently ... and it's worked for me so far.
Security
Ball pythons are shy secretive animals. They should be given small
tight hides to cram themselves into so that they can feel safe. A
hide on each side of the enclosure will allow your snake to get the
temperature it needs and also feel secure. If you can fit anything
inside of the hide along with your ball python it is probably too
big of a hide ... they LOVE small spaces.
Another "trick" for adding additional security is to fill your
snakes enclosure with loosely crumpled pieces of newspaper. This
will make a large open space feel very secure and "safe" to your
ball python.
Sometimes, a lack of small tight places to hide can cause a ball
python to go off feed.
Water
Ball pythons should always have access to clean fresh water. Make
sure to provide your snake with fresh water daily and thoroughly
wash your snakes water dish on a regular basis.
